In the countryside, you can often find nata, the savory cream topping to the left. No, it's not even close to mayo. |
The pupusas of El Salvador clearly made an impression on
me,
but Venezuela was ready with a rebound relationship. The arepa
is the traditional and quintessential food item of Venezuela and
Colombia, dating back to precolonial times, when it was made by the
indigenous tribes of the area whose word, erepa, it
(basically) still bears.
A friend had expressed concern that
shortages of arepa flour might prevent me from finding them, but
luckily that was not a problem. However, we did hear tales of
scarcity, similar to what you'd hear if China ran out of rice,
America ran out of oil, or Brazil ran out of sex.
Ham and cheese arepa for breakfast, and unfortunately too dark to see the one in the back, because I can't remember what it was. |
Arepas are pretty much just corn meal
patties, with none of
nixtamal's alkaline processing (and ergo less nutritious than pupusas), though
yucca and wheat varieties are also skulking around the region. Plain
arepas are served with most meals, like bread in Italy or tortillas
in Mexico, but they are commonly a stand alone breakfast or afternoon
snack. If they're the star of the show, they can be fried, stuffed,
or stacked with a variety of ingredients.
The basic breakfast incarnations select
among cheese, beans, and egg, though shrimp, chicken, pork, beef,
coconut, and avocado were usually available too. That list is
deceptively short, since “cheese” can take any of a dozen forms,
while pork, chicken, and beef also come in multiple preparations, my
favorite being pernil, a pulled pork usually made from the
shoulder.
My domino sample, with avena. I would have taken a pic after I started eating, but it was drippy lava-hot goodness. |
Three other favorites are dominó,
reina pepiada, and
pabellon criollo. The
first of those is just a mixture of black beans and cheese that went
well with a glass of avena,
a thick oat-based drink cinnamon, clove, and sugar, that reminded me
of horchata's chewier cousin.
Reina pepiada
is a traditional Venezuelan filling of chicken and avocado, in a
sauce that may contain mayonnaise, lime, and cilantro. It's frickin
delicious.
Then
there's pabellón
criollo. You
can stuff a sample of this dish into an arepa, but I had it as a
separate plate, and it was the single best meal I had in Venezuela.
Traditionally a farmer's hearty breakfast, I did indeed feel capable
of working for hours after eating it...as long as I (miraculously)
avoided the food coma.
There
are of course variations, but I only have eyes for what I ate.
Nostalgia rarely includes so much drooling. |
-Rice,
and caraotas fritas.
I use the local term since if I just said “fried black beans” you
might not picture the savory deliciousness that found its way into
most forkloads. So good.
-A
fried egg on top of the beans, cuz why not?
-Carne mechada
is a shredded beef preparation similar to Cuba's ropa
vieja that
paired perfectly with the caraotas,
and made me eager to find a field to plow. I felt like Venezuelan
Popeye. I bet there was coriander in there.
-Tajadas.
Again, “fried plantains” just doesn't do it justice. Nor
adequately pay homage to the way these ingredients blended,
cooperated, and tag-teamed my taste buds into blissful submission.
It was all so good, I nearly forgot
about the fresh parchita
(passionfruit) juice and basket full of arepas.
There is still a special place in my
heart for pupusas, but after a Venezuelan meal, there was no spare
space in my stomach.
Stop, just stop. I am in South Africa, taste buds are irrelevant here... nothing for them to do.
ReplyDeleteSorry to torture you. I'll look up a pabellon recipe and practice it before you're back in town next time...
ReplyDelete