Because I remember walking down a
backstreet in San Salvador, where children stopped their futbol game
(played with a clump of garbage) to watch me pass, grandmothers
winked at me, everyone said hello, and laundry hung to dry on rusting
barbed wire.
There was exhaust, and constant noise, and a large plate
of food cost about $3. It was warm to hot, and I needed no vocabulary
beyond T-shirt, shorts, and sandals. Violence was a very real
possibility and twenty-dollar bills were too large to use most
places, tens were pushing it.
But today I rode around in a car, since
you can't really walk around Iceland at present, and the sky opened
up with an array of things that were all irrefutably snow. People are
all friendly, but there is a distance between strangers that even I
can feel, I who seemed aloof to the Salvadoran sensibility of space.
The cold has perhaps hardened cheeks into a habitual emotional
reserve? Or something about long months of darkness, of light, or of
the relentless need to work together?
The barbed wire here is clean,
and serves only to remind the shaggy ponies that they shouldn't
wander into the street. A small plate of food, elegantly arranged,
three slices of lamb and some decorations around the perimeter was
about $40.
$40? According to this site's data on minimum wages in El Salvador, that would be about a third of a
month's salary for an agricultural worker. For a small meal. Ten long
days' work, one tasty but unsatisfying plate.
They tell me this is one planet, but
I'm not sure I believe them.
But I can tell Them, one planet of
more, I love it all. I love the noise of San Salvador, and the
silence of an Icelandic field at night. I love wandering a hill town
past indigena women in
colorful skirts, and bundling up with the armored layers against the
cold. I love cheese and ham on toast, and pupusas.
I love the hearty
belly laughs of latinos, and the hard-won smiles of pleased Nords.
And I love, beyond love, the chance to come and see as much of it as
I can.
And the craziest part? I'm saving the best Iceland photos for later posts. This country is just...preposterous. |
I love
travel. I love this planet. Hell, I love you too.
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