The minds behind The Hangover II were
clever. I don't necessarily mean that in terms of content, since one
could debate whether unknowing/drunken sex with a transgender*
prostitute is a manifestation of the transitory Zeitgeist of our age,
or just a cheap giggle.
*I apologize if this is not the
currently approved phrasing, and to my mother's friends, who perhaps
didn't expect to read sentences like that when they clicked on here
this innocuous title.
But they were definitely clever when
they chose Bangkok as their second setting. After all, what trumps
Las Vegas for ostentatious depravity, besides Bangkok?
Did you know Bangkok was the World's
Most Visited City on Earth last year? (Don't worry, that's the only
actual information I will foist on you.)
Art in a Yangon alley |
Coming from Yangon, Bangkok seemed like
a cold bucket of modernity to the face. Yangon was moldering building
façades, communal tea cups waiting in shallow dishes of water, and
people with nowhere in particular to walk, while Bangkok was sky
trains, giant neon signs, and an entire mall dedicated to computers.
The name Khao San Road has echoed
through the stories of travelers for decades, and I was curious to
see this famous festival of traveler degeneracy and extravagance. I
checked into a hotel, ate soup, and walked down.
Khao San Road, Bangkok. I only took this one picture. |
Not sure what to expect, I was still
surprised to find...nothing. Nothing new at least. Aggressive hawkers
selling T-shirts, overpriced restaurants serving Western food, and
shady guys on the edges offering more illicit entertainment. None of
this was new. There was just more of it than usual, and younger
tourists than I'm used to seeing.
A woman wheeled a cart past me loaded
with fried arthropods and annelids, that is, scorpions and worms.
Yes, both of those are pretty gnarly to eat, but in that setting?
Crunching down on a roasted locust seemed....kitschy.
But there is far more to Bangkok than
Khao San Road. And it's not far away.
A few minutes' walk and I was in
another crowd, this time with few white faces, the same shirts for
half the price, and foods admittedly less unusual but far more
interesting by virtue of actually being what people in Thailand eat.
After a bowl of soup I ambled past
vendors headed home, fans resting for tomorrow's heat, and men
playing checkers on well worn chess boards.
By the time I got home, Bangkok and I
were getting along just fine.
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