I felt like a jerk even as I asked the
question.
“How do I get to 'Tiger Temple' and
is it worth it?”
I didn't mean to sound like that
guy. The one who is really
saying “I've, like, traveled so much
that, like, temples and stuff just don't impress me any more. I'm
THAT worldly. It has to be really amazing to be worth my time.”
I meant “Is it something 'real' or an
amusement-parky tourist trap for people like me whose day-tours are
cancelled by bad weather and find themselves with a day to burn in
Krabi, Thailand?”
That's barely better. But
Thailand...has had a lot of tourism.
The grungy guesthouse owner (grungy
guesthouse that is, the owner looked like he showers sometimes)
replied that it was definitely worth it, so I took the shared pick-up
taxi/truck (called a sŏrngtăaou
in Thailand) to a large gold dome with a skeletal structure crouching
above it in unfinished concrete that looked more like a municipal
water tower than a temple. Or maybe the secondary entrance to a
baseball park built in the early 1980s.
At the bottom were two large tiger
statues that would fit in just fine outside a carnival ride, bubble
gum stuck to the bottoms of their “menacing” claws, and rings on
their backs from where people set down their slushies.
Oh dear. It's worse than I feared.
The tigers were guarding a room with a
nun so bored she was basically sleeping, and at least a dozen
donation boxes. Subtle.
Then the Russians arrived. That helped
a bit. The last couple years have shown the Russians to be the Next
Big Wave. The previous wave was bed bugs.
Russian tourists haven't yet learned
that you don't have to take a picture with your head in the tiger's
mouth. At a temple. (I admit the likely existence of hundreds, if not
thousands, of pictures of Westerners doing the exact same thing. But
come one....they're Russian. They're so much fun to give a hard
time.)
I tried to flirt with one, just because
how great would THAT be? But she could only giggle and say
“I...English no.”
I climbed to the top past innumerable
scatterings of bird shit and stagnant puddles gathering on the
poorly-graded concrete steps.
Halfway there were some little bells.
That was kinda pretty. (Sigh.)
I kept expecting to hear “The
starting lineup for the visiting Cleveland Indians...” but there
was only wind and the faint metal taps of the bells now below me.
At
the top was an altar in a dreary room of puddles, bat squeaks, and
pigeon shit (which were actually interesting ambiance after so many brightly lit temples covered in gaudy gold). Stacks of rebar lay around, rusting away without ever
being installed. There's something so tragic about that, no?
I wrote my little message in the dust.
There was plenty of space beside the two Spaniards who quieren each
other very much.
Time to go home I guess.
Then I noticed the peeking golden
glints of a temple on top of the hill high overhead, and I could just
see steep flights of stairs ascending the sheer cliffside. Ohhhhh.
Now you're talking!
I headed that way...
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