I woke up on the side of a warm
highway, somewhere in Turkey.
My bus was getting smaller in one
direction, while from the other a tractor was approaching with more
noise than speed, and to both sides stretched farm fields of small
trees growing...something, presumably. Apricots?
The morning sun was slanting straight
into my eyes, my mouth tasted like I'd eaten the last portion of a
tavuk kebab sometime during the early morning hours, and I noticed I
was wearing my backpack, although the belt strap wasn't fastened yet.
With effort I remembered leaving
Istanbul the day before. Cramming myself into the third tram to stop
at Sultanahmet after the first two repulsed my efforts, then standing
in the sardiney insanity of rush hour in front of a guy who kept
sighing and grunting in irritation, somehow unaware of the horrid
stench that came out of his smoker mouth every time. Rush hour is a
crime against humanity.
A couple bus stations, and a small
screen with first Bruce Willis bleeding, then kung fu, all of it in
Turkish. At some point the bus drove onto a boat, and we crossed dark
water glittering orange with reflected light from the armada of other
ferries crossing the Sea of Marmara in every direction.
There was one giant restaurant bus stop
complex that stank like old urine, and one where I didn't bother
getting off the bus. Then a fuzzy recollection of the bus kid waking
me up and gesturing that I should get off, here, among the orchards
on a stretch of unlabeled pavement in a foreign land.
Okay then. But what now?
The morning sun gave a sharp slant to
the shadows of trees lining a nice path that paralleled the highway.
It ended to my left, and hopefully began in the town of Selรงuk
somewhere to my right. I started that way, passing farm driveways
where guard dogs looked at me with sleepy requests that I not make
them work yet. I was happy to oblige.
Between the trees and above the fields,
the parapet outlines of a hilltop fortress were matte finished by the
morning haze, though I could see the rich red of Turkish flags hung
down the walls. Was that were I was going?
I found Love Street, where the tourist
infrastructure was still sleeping, chairs piled inside the Turkish
ice cream stand and rugs not yet hauled out to sit in the sun, and on
a side street was a guesthouse that I'd read about online before
leaving Istanbul. The reviews had been positive, but they hadn't
mentioned the small cat who ran down the steps to meet me, climbed
into my lap, then up on my shoulders.
Okay small feline one, I'll stay here.
As soon as they wake up.
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