Some friends did me a favor the other day. They asked my
opinion.
Everyone loves to feel like an expert, and travelers may be
the worst of all. But I am leery of trying it, because I am vaguely aware of
how much I don’t know, and because most people sound like pretentious jackasses
while they expound on their expertise. (“I had a two hour layover in Dubai
three years ago…let me tell you what the Middle East is like…they’re so
organized! They like everything to be nice and orderly, A1, A2, A3, that sort
of thing…”)
But I was surrounded by friends, and tales were flowing like
the hard alcohol none of us drink anymore, so I indulged.
They were asking about Europe, 27 of whose countries I’ve
visited (29 if you count Vatican City and Monaco) and I found myself
recommending, as my secret #1 pick: Slovenia.
The capital, Ljubljana, is a friendly place of details, history,
and local character which I would describe as “quaint” if I didn’t hate that
word so much. Plus have you ever seen a word more fun to say? I’ll wait while
you practice a few more times. Make sure to really get that “lyuh” sound.
Lyooblyana.
Coastal Slovenian city of Piran, after a truly epic storm |
It’s not as expensive as its western and northern neighbors,
but is more developed and luxurious than much of Eastern Europe. There are trees,
caves, and the coast is absolutely gorgeous.
At the time I thought nothing of it, but just now I was
putting away laundry and I noticed the little glass tea-light candle holder I
bought in Ljubljana and never gave away. And suddenly I remembered…
I was miserable in Ljubljana.
My time in Ljooobljaaana (calm down) stands out as one of
the two lowest points of that first long trip, which are probably my worst
moments on the road to date. (Knock on wood.)
It was cold, I didn’t have the proper gear, and I’d spent
two days trying to win over a Czech cutie who turned out to be hung up on some
dude in Prague whom she admitted was a total jerk. Those three things were
actually fairly par for the course, but what really made me miserable was the
timing.
I was standing in the deli section of a basement
supermarket, deciding whether to have spaghetti again or splurge on some runny
goulash, when it hit me.
It was Thanksgiving.
Somehow the fact of being there, surrounded by people who
had no idea it was my favorite holiday of the year, so far from my family, and
deciding what to eat on another lonely night in a grungy hostel…
Have you ever cried in the supermarket? In a foreign
country? I hid in the pasta section while I tried to stop. It took awhile.
But there I was last weekend, recommending Slovenia and its
capital as among my very favorite places, not even remembering that damn
supermarket. Because sadness passes. Because we remember both happy and sad
things, but can choose to spend more energy on the former.
And because I just spent Christmas with my family.
K was not there, and nor was her family, who I feel are part
of my own, but I can see the sadness of that, accept it, feel it, and focus on
the happiness of seeing all my siblings gathered in one place for the first
time in 4 years. Watching my parents hand out presents, and all of us
immediately knowing they’re socks.
So yes, Ljubljana is one of my favorite places. So is
Monterey, California. So is Antwerp Province, Belgium. There’s happiness in all
of them. I can focus on that.
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